Invalid Address for Write Error

[WhoDatRazor]

Since upgrading Windows 7 to Windows 10 and installing 2 new ASUS blu-ray internal drives in my desktop, I can't get a good DL (50GB) copy using Verbatim DataLifePlus blanks. I keep getting this error during the Write function:

Flexburn
I/O Error!
Sdb: Test Unit Ready
Sense Data: Invalid Address for Write

After copying a virgin multiple episode blu-ray to my C: hard drive, I even tried burning a disc using ImgBurn and got the exact same error message.

Anybody else have this problem?

[3dman]

What burn speed are you set for? lower it to 1/2 the rated blank disk speed also in img burn settings check mark OPC before burn this does a test burn on a unused portion of the disk to set laser power to blank disk brand.Whenever you have a burn problem post the Fab or Imgburn log.Also check the new burners for a firmware update if you posted the burn logs this info. could be checked.

[WhoDatRazor]

Thanks 3dman7. When I was using DVDFab on Windows 7, the burn speed was on recommended. After Windows 10, I lowered the speed to 4, then recently to 2. The Verbatim blanks are rated @ 6X. The two ASUS blu-ray drives are supposed to be "plug and play" and don't require a firmware update, according to an ASUS tech. Recently I downloaded the only ASUS firmware update for this model, even though it has an E-Green feature (for reduced energy consumption) and a 3D feature that mine don't have. I could remove this update using a Restore Point. DVD's seem to burn OK, and I got a good copy of The Incredible Hulk on Main Movie mode that burned onto a 25GB Verbatim disc. As these logs show, a few multi-episode blu-rays burned successfully on 50 GB discs but had errors on the playback. Most just have the burn error. I tried enabling the "Verify" feature on both DVD's and blu-rays, but even with a successful burn, I get a fail on the Verify, so I took this off. I switched burn engines from VSO to DVDFab, per a DVDFab suggestion. Burn Logs thru 3-30-17.log

ImgBurn.log

Burning Logs.txt

[october262]

Try Uninstalling one of your internal bluray drive's
and try re burning your disc again. See if this error
Still shows up.

[3dman]

Your getting this error because the drive don't like the blank disks they are the cheap outsourced disks you want to buy the expensive ones or change brands when I was burning disks I used TDK who makes Digistor 6x disks that never gave me a problem and at good cost look them up and give them a try and this problem will go away.

Now if you want to try to use the disks you have you may be able to use them at 2x or 4x speed.Some drives have firmware updates so you can use cheap disks with them this drive doesn't.Use img burn in settings for burn check mark OPC before burn and use the slower burn speeds sometimes this will allow using the cheaper disks but not always.Change blank disks to ones I told you about or the expensive ones of the same brand your using with the special dye and watch this problem go away trust me this happens to a lot of people.Here is your drives firmware updates theirs different updates for each version of windows.
Digistor 6x disks

[Turak]

I would debate your statement about Verbatims being 'cheap outsourced discs'. They are one of the BEST made especially if you go and check the 'quality' of the burns using programs like Opti Drive Control, Kprobe, and others, etc.

But definitely avoid the LTH versions of the discs. Many burners do not like them. Also if possible, depending on exactly what program you are using to burn them, you may want to turn OFF the feature 'Perform OPC Before Burn'. I know it is in ImgBurn.

I use the Verbatim BD-R DL disks almost exclusively, specifically Verbatim #98356 (look at the bar code label). They are some of the BEST Blu-Ray DL discs made. Giving the BEST QUALITY of burns.

Definitely avoid the Verbatim LTH (Low to High) versions, as well as off brand versions. I would even avoid the Ritek RiData discs, SmartBuy discs, and the Optical Quantum discs. They are middle of the road quality at best....

EVERY disc I burn, I check the 'quality' of the burn afterwards, looking at the PIE, PIF, and PIO errors.....which is the only way to really see the quality of the burn. Mind you only certain Blu-Ray Burners can even scan the discs for this information.

[3dman]

(I would debate your statement about Verbatims being 'cheap outsourced discs'.)


Verbatim is a subsidiary company/brand owned by Mitsubishi Chemicals Corp (a.k.a. Mitsubishi Kagaku Kabushiki-gaisha ~ Mitsubishi Kagaku Media), and is part of the "Mitsubishi" family of companies that is also known for motorcycles, cars, etc.

For most of its CD/DVD blanks history, Verbatim has exclusively used media manufactured by it's parent company. The monikers "DataLife" and "DataLifePlus" have come to mean different things through the years. As such, they've basically lost all meaning.

In the 2x era, "DataLife" meant CMC discs, while "DataLifePlus" meant MCC discs. The CMC usage only lasted a short while, less than a year. For all of the 4x and 8x generation, all Verbatim discs were MCC discs (excluding the European "pearl" series discs that were Taiyo Yuden). Most of the last 5 years worth of 16x generation were also MCC discs.

DataLife and DataLifePlus doesn't even appear on all packages anymore. Many simply use "AZO" now. All three markings more or less mean "Mitsubishi discs" right now. This could always change, since the sub-brand markings don't seem to have a historical continuity.

The discs to avoid are the "Life Series" and "Value Series" discs that are not Mitsubishi media, even though it's under the Verbatim branding. Life/Value discs are low-grade budget crap from Ritek or CMC, mediocre second-grade discs at best. For the price, and used in the right contexts (duplication only, never masters/archives), those are fine for the value. But I'd rather spend another $5-10 and locate Mitsubishi Verbatims or switch to Taiyo Yuden discs.

The extra $5-10 price for Mitsubishi is absolutely justified over the non-MCC discs (Life/Value Series media).

The OPC before burn in img burn sets laser power for the disk in the drive so this should be turned on not off.This sometimes lets you use cheaper disks with a burner that don't like them.

[Turak]

DVD's vs Blu-Rays

Definitely agree with your clarifications regarding the discs and the various disc ID codes. Although most of what you are talking about is DVD discs, as far as the Disk ID codes you mentioned (i.e. CMC - CMC Magnetics and MCC manufactured by Mitsubishi). As far as the Verbatim DL DVDs go, the best Verbatims are made by the Singapore plant. Recently they are also coming from the United Arab Emirite plant which are usually as good, but I have had bad batches. Point is that you can no longer rely on the MCC Disc code as they have the exact same code. You almost have to burn a couple and then run a scan on them checking the actual burn errors. Again, not all Burners have this capability, especially when it comes to Blu-Rays.

But as far as the Blu-Rays, generally the genuine Mitsubishi discs BD-R DL with the VERBATIMf code are the 'good' ones. But again you have to watch out for fakes or batches from different plants (also branded with the same disc ID). Again STAY AWAY from the LTH discs. They are cheaper, lower grade discs that many burners just do not like. There have also been some questions raised about their longevity after being burned.

I have a fairly extensive library of the DVD disc codes and many of the Blu-Ray disc codes so that I could sort out the better discs. I HIGHLY recommend anyone interested in 'quality' burns check the disc codes and stick with the disc codes that are known to give higher quality burns. Note that it can vary a bit from Burner to Burner. Some burners work better with Ritek discs, some work better with Verbatim discs, etc.

If you are REALLY interested in quality burns, you will burn the movie/data on some test discs, at 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x and then scan them for PIE/PIF/PIO (DVDs) and LDC/BIS errors (Blu-Rays) errors to really see the difference in the quality of the burn at a given speed. With the true Mitsubishi good quality discs I have been able to burn the 6x disks at both 6x and 8x and maintain maximum quality of the burns. This is using a Pioneer Blu-Ray Burner. I am not sure who is making the ASUS Burners or if they are actually manufacturing their own now.

But I disagree with the statement about the OPC setting. Yes, it stands for Optical Power Calibration and is the burners attempt to try and figure out an 'Optimum' burn setting. But there are a couple problems. Not all burners implement it correctly and even if they do, the test spot they burn is on the inside portion of the disc which can have a different quality when compared to the disc halfway through or at the outer edge. Many burners with alter their speeds at different points through the disc to maintain maximum quality. Also it is only useful on discs that ARE NOT in the burners library of Disc ID's. All burners scan for the disc ID, look at their built in table, and then burn using the strategy from that table. Which has usually been optimized for that disc ID code. The OPC test will sometimes set a speed different from the built in strategy and give a different (lower) quality of burn. If the disc ID is not in the burners library, it will usually default to the lowest speed, which is usually 2x.

[3dman]

No matter my advice stands and is from many years of helping people with the error codes the OP posted.His disk burner also has its own OPC before burn built in the drive and is a international model.

[Turak]

That error could be a few things

I would definitely try to see if there is a newer firmware update for the drive, try the OPC setting both On and OFF, and try some different discs.

Looking at the IMGBURN.log from above his problem occurs when it starts burning the 2nd layer of the disc.

[WhoDatRazor]

Thanks for all the help guys. You are Awesome!. I spent 4 hours replying to all the advice only to lose it when I sent it, so this will be shorter.

October262: ASUS tech already had me disconnect one of the two blu ray drives, in case there might be a load sharing problem, so only one has been connected this past week. Thanks for the suggestion.

The blank disc issue:
The blanks I am using are: Verbatim DataLifePlus BD-R DL White Inkjet Hub Printable 50 GB, 6X, P/N:973345, Bar Code 23942 97334, made in Taiwan (most recent batch)
Verbatim DataLifePlus BD-R White Inkjet Hub Printable With Hard Coat 25 GB, 6X, P/N 97339, Bar Code 23942 97339, made in Taiwan.

3dman7: The disc you recommend, the Digistors are about half as expensive the Verbatims above, which doesn't necessarily mean mine are better, but they worked fine before I went from Windows 7 to 10 and changed my blu ray drive from LG to ASUS. I will try some of the Digistors; they may work better and same me some $. I read online that ASUS's drives are crappier than LG or Pioneer, which it said are the best. Supposedly cheaper chipsets in the ASUS. The ASUS firmware link you gave is the firmware I tried and is still installed, no help. When I had the LG, I had some burn issues and tried firmware for a similar but different model and had no more burn problems. (Just a side note) I finally found something about OPC in the ImgBurn forum and it said it is disabled by default. Couldn't find out how to enable it, unless it is the Test Mode box under Write tab. When it is checked, the Verify box auto unchecks. Is this it? If so, I will try it on and off. Couldn't find OPC in DVDFab. Thanks for all your help - you are awesome!

Turak: You mentioned that the problem seemsto happen when I when the burn program switches to the 2nd layer. Is this why the burn errors happen when I'm trying to clone burn DL discs? Does it mean that the problem is with the ASUS drive? Someone online suggested that since burning DL blanks is very iffy by nature, you should always burn to a single layer disc, even if there is considerable compression involved. Haven't tried to burn any multi-episode 50GB discs to 25GB discs because the compression was always into the upper 30%ages. Don't know if it's even possible, but will give it a try. On some good TV episode discs like Breaking Bad or Game of Thrones, I'd really like to keep the excellent blu ray quality even if they are a lot more expensive than the 25GB discs. I didn't know there are programs like Opti Drive Control. I downloaded it and tried it on a copied 25GB movie and tried to make a Test Disc and only got error messages. I used the manual, but couldn't get it to work. I emailed the owner of it for help. This is SO over my head. Was hoping to learn something from it. Is there another program I can understand enough to run? I did learn that my ASUS drive is using Firmware 3. The ASUS firmware download I tried and 3dman7 linked to is V1.01.51, so maybe it is not running my ASUS drive???

You wrote: " EVERY disc I burn, I check the 'quality' of the burn afterwards, looking at the PIE, PIF, and PIO errors.....which is the only way to really see the quality of the burn. Mind you only certain Blu-Ray Burners can even scan the discs for this information." Could you explain how to check this? I've looked at the DVDFab logs, and it is mostly gobbily gook to me. Doctor, could you explain this in layman's terms? Thanks so much for all the help. I've already learned more than I ever thought I would want to know about this, and it's still not nearly enough. I look to hearing from you.

[october262]

The perform OPC located in imgburn click tools - settings - write - page 1
Check (perform OPC before write) click ok.

[3dman]

No need to try with OPC off you already did that in the log file you posted that's why I said to turn it on and try again at 2x speed.
08:56:44 OPC: No (from the log file for img burn)
In case you don't know different drives work and are tested with different brands of blank software. Pioneer and big drive makers normally post this info. on their internet drive sights so you know what blank disk were tested by the company to work with their burner. Some even give the test results for the burn that you were trying to do.Pioneer adds new blank disks to their firmware so they can work with newer or cheaper made disks.Some other company's do this also so with newer firmware the speeds they can burn at with different brands of disks is also updated in firmware that's why its so important to keep your disk drive updated with new firmware not to mention bug fixes.For your drives I also don't know who makes them yours are made for the international market so says their internet page.

The best drives and I speak here with many years of burning disks are the Pioneers and LG drives.So you see your drive just don't like the disks your feeding it so try the OPC before burn to see if this will allow them to burn get different blank disks and we don't know what disk brands to recommend because what disks work well with your burner is not listed on it's internet page nor who makes them so the TDK Digistors disks worked well on my Pioneer and LG burners over the years I had no coasters on both the 25 and 50 gig disks this doesn't mean your drive will like them but if it doe's I will save you a lot of money.Most of us switched over to using UBS plug in 1-5 T hard drives or cloud storage for storage and no longer make disks because its nice to have a portable collection of movies at a very cheap storage cost per gig.

[3dman]

Img burn is professional burn software look at my screen shot using discovery Img burn will id the disk in drive by Manufacture.This is one of my Digistors disks in the drive it ID's Manufacture as TDK you can do the same to see what company really made the disks you have.These Digistor disks are 6x disks but you see img burn can really burn them faster at 10x with my disk burner a LG also show in this info.with model number and what version of Firmware it has on it.It also says there's already info. on the disk so its used already and has a movie on it.

In my experience any disk the professional burner software Imgburn says can burn faster than the speed marked on the disk is a disk that's made really well.Let's just hope digistor stays with TDK as manufacturer.I would buy just one if you can to preform this test and a burn with your drive or ask at the link I posted for them.

[Turak]

Did a little rearch on your burner: ASUS BW-16D1HT

Hi WhoDatRazor;

From what I found, you are not alone with burning problems using that drive.

Interesting that it worked fine under Windows 7 and your problems started when you went to Windows 10. Were you actually using the ASUS drive in Windows 7 or did you install that when you went to Windows 10? If you meant that you were using the Verbatim discs fine under 7 and then started having problems when you went to Windows 10...did that happen to occur when you went to the ASUS drive. It could still be the drive or the discs.

From what I could find out the ASUS is definitely a 'rebranded' drive, but I could not find out from who. Meaning that it is really manufactured by someone else, then ASUS puts their own firmware or a version customized for them in it. The problem with rebranded drives is that many times when they customize the firmware, they manage to screw it up a bit, not always but sometimes.

I have used Pioneer, Lite-On, LG, Sony, HP, Dell, and Panasonic Burners quite a bit.

The top 3 I would recommend and in the following order; Pioneer, Lite-On, and LG....almost all of the others are 'rebranded' drives. For example, many of the Sony drives are just rebranded Lite-Ons. Dells are all rebranded from whatever manufacturer is selling the cheapest at the time of manufacture. But even 3 that I just recommended have had models that performed poorly.

A couple of the Best pioneer Blu-Ray drives are the Pioneer BD-RW BDR-209M and BDR-208, one of the better Lite-On Blu-Ray models is iHBS212, and for LG's the WH14NS40 or WS16NS40 are the better performers. If you are interested in the BEST QUALITY burns, you will find the Pioneers hard to beat. I actually rate them the BEST when it comes to burn quality.

To answer your question about the problem with the write errors when burning on the 2nd layer. If its the drive, sometime the manufacturer will update the firmware and manage to correct the problem. But you can wait forever for that sometimes and it may never happen. I would say it is either the burner or the discs. I know they are a bit expensive but try a package of the Verbatim #98356 discs. When you get them check the label and make sure they are from Singapore or United Emirite.

Here is a link to them on Newegg;



I hate to tell you this, but the discs from the Taiwan plant are definitely the lower grade discs and could be the cause of your problem. I have seen the exact same problem using some of the Ritek, Smartbuy, and no-brand discs. Again make sure they do not say LTH on them. Many burners do not like the LTH discs.

As far as scanning the disks... Go look on the web for Opti Drive Control v1.70. It can be used with certain models of Burners to scan DVDs for the PIE/PIF/POF errors and Blu-Rays for the LDC/BIS errors. You burn the disc and then do a 'Quality' scan to see a graph and statistics of the errors. This is the ONLY way to 'truly' see the quality of the burn. There is other software that can do it but there is not many of them. Kprobe (only works with Lite-Ons), Nero Disc speed, etc.

Now, here is the problem with 'quality scanning' disks. You can only do it with certain models of burners. Lite-On drives can scan both DVD's and Blu-Rays. Pioneer burners can only scan DVDs, not Blu-Rays. I am not sure what LG's can scan. Most burners can scan DVD's, but not all of them can scan Blu-Rays. It depends on the chipset used in the Burners. Lite-On uses Mediatek chipsets which are great for scanning. Other drives like the Pioneer use a different chipset and hence can only scan DVDs.

I currently have 2 Blu-Rays in my computer, an older Lite-On iHBS-212 and a Pioneer BDR-209M. I use the Pioneer to do the burns (higher quality) and use the Lite-On for scanning.

As far as burning DL discs....I would say it is not 'iffy' at all anymore. It is just a matter of finding a 'good' burner and using quality discs. The problem is the drive models change and even worse the disc manufacturers keep changing the formulation/process for manufacturing their discs striving for ever cheaper manufacturing costs and higher profits. Which in turn ends up meaning poorer quality discs.

I started out early on, compressing stuff to fit it on a single layer disc, but found that compressing things just means quality loss in the long run. I now, NEVER compress anything.

A couple more tips, if you buy your discs in spindles, never perform your testing using the discs at the very top or bottom of the spindle. Even though they pack the spindle with spacers, the discs on the top and bottom (1-10) can spin a bit during shipping/handling and actually ruin the surface of the disc just enough to cause poor burns. If you look at them under a good light you can actually see the marks on the disc surface sometimes.

Burning discs at higher than their recommended speed is called 'over speeding' the discs. It is available when a burner manufacturer actually tests that particular disc and optimizes their burner for a higher speed. Sometimes it works fine, but many times you can get a poorer quality burn doing it. My Pioneer can burn the Verbatim 6X discs at 2X, 4X, 6X, and 8X. The 6X and 8X tend to produce the best quality burns, but at 8X not always. Again it really depends on the quality of that 'batch' of discs. The quality can vary from batch to batch and plant that manufactures them.

Definitely try using ImgBurn and switch the OPC setting ON if it was OFF or OFF if it was ON and see if that solves your problem.

Also as another member recommended. Try installing only one burner, disconnect BOTH the data and power cables from one of them if both are already installed. Then go into Windows/Device Manager and delete the burner from it. Reboot your PC and let it relearn/re-aquire the burner. I have seen than fix various problems too.

Hope this helps.